Four women mountaineers from Gilgit-Baltistan (GB) have summited the 7,027-metre tall Spantik Peak without high-altitude porter support, alongside a Romanian climber and a mountaineer from Punjab.
The Alpine Club of Pakistan confirmed that the four local women reached the summit and returned safely to Skardu on Monday.
The climbers were Shama Baqir and Samana Rahim from Shimshal Valley, Zooni Aslam from Gulmit Valley in Gojal, Upper Hunza, and Zaiba Batool Shigri from Shigar district.
Bismah Hassan from Lahore was also part of the expedition but turned back around 250 metres below the summit after developing a health issue.
Alpine Club of Pakistan General Secretary Ayaz Shigri told a private media outlet that the women reached the summit either a day before or on the same day that climber Dr Asma Mushtaq died while descending the mountain.
He said that weather conditions had remained favourable at the peak until Friday, after which worsening weather made rescue and recovery efforts difficult.
The expedition also included Romanian climber Alexandra Visan, who has been battling cancer and successfully reached the summit before descending safely. Her expedition was organised by Broad Boy Adventures, owned by Pakistani mountaineer Shehroze Kashif.
Kashif said on social media that Visan was accompanied by local high-altitude porter Ali Ameen from Shigar. He described her climb as an example of perseverance, saying that some climbs are about finding the strength to continue when life itself becomes the mountain.
Punjab climber Ayyan Adeel also reached the summit. According to Kashif, Adeel became the youngest climber to summit Spantik without high-altitude porter support, carrying his own equipment with assistance from fellow expedition members Awais Choudary and Talha Khalid.
Meanwhile, bad weather has continued to delay efforts to recover the body of Dr Mushtaq, who died at around 6,250 metres on Thursday while descending from the summit. Her body remains at Camp 3.
Shigri said that a six-member team of high-altitude porters reached Camp 2 on Sunday and tried to continue towards Camp 3 but heavy rain and snowfall forced them to return.
Weather conditions are expected to improve on Tuesday, after which rescuers will make another attempt to bring Mushtaq’s body to base camp. Pakistan Army helicopters are expected to then airlift the body to Skardu.
Helicopter operations have also been affected at 8,047-metre Broad Peak, where the body of American climber Sarah Mallory Geis remains at base camp awaiting airlift.
