‘Karachi boy’ in Islamabad: Asad Monga championing culinary diplomacy at SCO summit

Random scrolling on Instagram sometimes lands you in the right spot. It happened with me when I saw Asad Monga’s post about having participated in the SCO Summit as a chef.

It was fascinating how he introduced himself as a boy from Karachi whose love for cooking weathered all the seasons of his life and took him to the corridors of power.

In his Instagram post, Asad shared his insights about Culinary Diplomacy and his experience at SCO in these words: “The SCO summit was a warm display of Pakistan’s efforts to welcome global leaders with our hospitality and show our willingness towards stronger regional ties and a better Pakistan. Maybe if we are to consistently soften our image on the global stage, the first foot forward is Culinary Diplomacy and Hospitality.”

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Asad was summoned by the government of Pakistan to assist with the Dinner & Lunch service carried out for world leaders at the SCO summit in Islamabad. It was such a moment that he had to document it all on his account with a behind-the-scenes photo dump, giving credit to all those who helped him in the process.

Asad is otherwise known for culinary retreats to understand seasonality in Pakistan and explore the use of fresh produce to curate meals.

Asad Monga on his culinary retreats

I sent him a message, and after a delay of some days, he replied. He was kind enough to actually explain to me the work environment of a kitchen, which he described as “an activity of trouble-shooting”. The reason behind this is that they are working with hands, and things are constantly changing as it involves too many variables, which one needs to keep in check, yet it is not something you cannot control. “We were doing a 15-16 hours shift in a day,” Asad told me.

His reasoning for making this a career left me in awe as he delineated that he decided to go for culinary arts as a subject to study for his undergrad because he wanted to do something with his hands. I did my A-levels from Karachi, and when everybody was deciding where to go for college, “I didn’t want to do a traditional degree, so I thought I wanted to do or learn something from my hands, and I wanted to have a skill-based profession. So I applied for culinary school, and I did a degree program in Kuala Lumpur and France,” Asad said, adding that he had completed his initial training and internships there as well. After his arrival back in Pakistan, he has been associated with different kitchens ever since 2011.

This got me to ask him how his experience of over a decade landed him this opportunity. To this, he replied that he was recommended by Okra- his previous place of work, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. The ministry reached out to him, and he put together a team to accompany him to Islamabad. In the capital, they collaborated with the team at Serena Hotel, where they prepared a nice mix of dishes, keeping in mind the sensitivities of global leaders.

With utmost modesty, Asad gave credit to his team, describing that it was “a full team effort,” as he was just a part of this big machinery, and he considers himself lucky to have been selected for this job.

Asad with the team at Islamabad’s Serena Hotel

Speaking about his team, Monga introduced me to two other chefs, one from Karachi and the other from Lahore. Ramsha is from Karachi, and she runs a restaurant called d.brew’d on I. I Chundrigarh road. Another team member was Rabia from Lahore, who runs a restaurant called For the Table. “My team helped me execute all the things to the level I wanted and our stakeholders were expecting of us”. Asad said emphatically.

Speaking on behalf of the team, he said, “We had a great time and had lots of learning, considering it was such a high-profile event. So many little things needed to be taken care of, which was a great information knowledge for us.”

Shedding light on his experience at the Serena Hotel, Asad recalled it as something that stood out for him in this journey. “What stood out for me was the team at Serena and how committed, professional and welcoming they were,” he mentioned exuberantly. He elaborated this by saying that this is usually not the case when you enter somebody else’s kitchen.

Asad Monga at Serena Hotel for SCO Summit 2024

Famous chef Julia Child once said no matter what happens in the kitchen never apologize but most of all I was interested in knowing all the details from inside the kitchen so I asked Asad about the menu and all thay transpired in the kitchen.

The menu has a mix of some Pakistani food and some international food. About the spice content and the making of the dishes, he commented, “Of course, we had to keep in check all the sensibilities of the global leaders that were coming in.” He further added that he and his team kept a nice mix of dishes in the overall menu which required the spices to be kept at a “base level” which means neither high nor low but flavourful.

The food they made was a mix of some Pakistani, Asian and Western food. There were Mutton Chops and Keemay-walay Naan for Pakistanis and salmon to add a touch of Continental. Asad very interestingly pointed out how some indigenous dishes were recreated for the occasion. For example, they made a Dao Dao Soup, which is a Hunza special.

He recounted how the dessert was specially made, keeping in mind the time of the year, which is the fall season. It had stewed apples with peanut butter cream and some dehydrated apple flowers on top of the apple crumble. “This was a play on apple crumble,” he ingeniously pointed out. “It’s funny, this was the first dessert I ever made, and I got an opportunity to serve it on such a big platform,” he added further.

Last but not least, Asad Monga stressed how this experience changed his perspective on the people in the government. “You know, you always have a stereotypical image in your head about the people working in the government, and that was completely changed for me as I saw some really capable, hardworking, accountable, responsible people working for the foreign office and beyond. They had a very invested outlook and they were very keen because the image of Pakistan is on the line,” he emphasized while adding that this was his first experience of seeing things up close.

Praising his collaborators further, he said that they were really hospitable towards his team. “I was feeling happy and proud that these people were given the charge to execute this kind of function.”

Talking to him transported me to the world of Ratatouille, and I was no less than Linguini. Meanwhile, him having the calmness of Gusteau, the sharpness of Colette and the passion of Remy. It is such an enviable combination for a chef to have and all that a culinary artist aspires for.

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